Trip Report 7/3-7/13 Very Long

Introduction and Thank You

We returned 3 weeks ago from a great 10 day trip to the Big Island! Our vacation was a wonderful experience in large part because of the useful information I obtained from the Island of Hawaii Forum on Trip Adviser. THANK YOU to everyone who posts and particularly to the knowledgeable people who reply!

One word of caution: Everyone has their own idea of what makes a good vacation. Our preferences may be VERY different than yours. We are a married couple aged 56 and 60 from Colorado with no children and in pretty good physical condition. We are not ';sit on a beach'; or ';resort'; people. We call ourselves ';frugal';, but you may call us cheap! With this insight into our vacation preferences, I hope the following (somewhat eccentric) trip report may provide you with some useful information.

Overview:

Following a 4 day conference in Waikiki we spent 10 days driving counterclockwise around the Big Island with the following specific objectives (all of which we achieved!):

1. See the volcano and current lava flow

2. Reach the Mauna Kea Summit

3. Snorkel in Kealakekua Bay

4. Play golf

5. Pay under $100 per night for lodging

Preparation before leaving home:

1. First 3 nights reserved at the Volcano Inn in Volcano Village

2. Last 5 nights reserved at the Kona Tiki Hotel in Kailua Kona

3. Rental car reserved in conjunction with one-way tickets from Honolulu to Kona. (We had ';open jaw'; tickets between Hawaii and the Mainland: Denver-Honolulu and Kona-Denver for $720 per person)

4. Researched possible lodging for 2 open nights depending on the weather and interests after we arrived.

(Note: We had several friends who visited the BI earlier in the summer, who (accurately) reported to us that the number of visitors was down and they had no trouble with making last minute plans. We also had no problem being seated in restaurants without reservations, getting tee times, scheduling activities, or finding lodging on our 2 ';open'; nights. We stayed at Uncle Billy%26#39;s Hilo Bay Hotel one night and the Kamuela Inn the other night.)

Pre-trip Sources Consulted:

1. Trip Adviser (EXCELLENT!)

2. Lonely Planet Guide

3. Sprout, Jerry %26amp; Janine. ';Hawaii: The Big Island Trailblazer: Where to Hike, Snorkel, Surf, Bike, Drive.'; Diamond Valley Company , Publisher: Markleeville: CA, 2003. (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED)

Items I am glad we packed:

1. Binoculars

2. Headlamp and flashlight (for the Thurston Lava Tube and the lava viewing)

3. Golf Clubs (even though we had to pay $25 for a second bag both to and from the mainland (but not on Hawaiian Airlines between Honolulu and Kona), it was better than renting clubs, given we played 5 rounds of golf.)

4. Hiking boots

5. My husband bought 5 Aloha shirts at a local ';thrift shop'; in CO before our trip for $2 each (and they were very nice!) Men definitely need these shirts!

Items I am glad we left at home:

1. Snorkeling equipment (provided with the Sea Quest excursion) and inexpensive to rent on the BI.

2. Parka/Heavy Jacket (provided with the Mauna Kea Summit tour)

My biggest worries before the trip:

1. Would the volcano erupt leading to an evacuation of the BI or worse? (On the trip I learned that tsunamis have caused more deaths in Hawaii than volcanoes. Hawaiian volcanoes have not been ';explosive'; in the past, the lava rolls out more slowly.)

2. Would I be able to sleep without air conditioning at the Kona Tiki Hotel in Kailua-Kona? (Yes, it was very pleasant.)

3. Had I booked too much time on the ';rainy'; side and not enough on the ';sunny';? (We didn%26#39;t have any rain on the Hilo side, but it rained every afternoon we were in Kailua-Kona - you just never know?!)

4. Given that the current lava flow is outside of the National Park, would the hike out to the lava viewing area be dangerous, stressful, and have my stomach in knots with worry? (Absolutely not!. The Civil Defense people have done a superb job of organizing the viewing area, supervising parking, and putting reflective strips on the lava to indicate the path.)

Top 10 Highlights of Our Trip:

1. Sea Quest morning snorkeling excursion ($85 per person) -- This was an extremely well-designed 4 hour tour that took us snorkeling at two good spots: near the Place of Refuge and near the Capt. Cook monument. We saw lots of multi-colored fish and turtles (nothing can compare with my snorkeling experience in Tahiti, but this was certainly the second best). The snorkeling gear provided was good quality, the guides were friendly and knowledgeable, and the snacks were good. The highlight for me was seeing both bottle-nose and spinner dolphins play beside our boat.

2. Mauna Kea Summit Adventures trip ($197 per person) -- This was an expensive, but well-worth-it, 8 hour trip from Kailua to the summit of Mauna Kea and back. It included a hot dinner, guided telescope viewing with hot cocoa and chocolate, as well as a trip to the summit. The driver provided a very interesting narrative about Big Island geology and history (and insights into the very slow pace of highway construction on the BI) during the 2-hour trip to the visitors%26#39; center. We were provided with parkas and gloves, which were VERY much appreciated at the summit. We benefited from the guide%26#39;s experience with timing our arrival on the summit for sunset . The summit at sunset was surreal with clouds below and these mushroom-shaped observatories bathed in a red/ pink glow. They also provided a great telescope viewing experience after sunset. We saw the rings of Saturn, the moons of Jupiter, a binary star system, a star nebulae with a hole in the middle, and the terminator region of our moon. Although I must agree with other forum postings that suggest that the saddle road and road to the summit are super-highways compared to some of our mountain roads in Colorado and I would certainly feel comfortable driving to the top in a rental car during the day, I felt the tour was worth it for information provided, timing, equipment, and the convenience of letting someone else do the driving especially on the way back to Kailua late at night.

3. Kilauea Iki trail hike in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park -- great 4-mile trek in the National Park, from the rim down through the rain forest, across the lava floor, then ascending back to the crater rim. We were at the trail head at 7:15 a.m. and returned at 9:15 a.m. even with lots of stops for pictures. The temperature and weather seemed best at this time, compared to the afternoon.

4. Evening lava viewing - Arrived at the parking area about 6 p.m. Any later and the lot would have been full. The parking arrangements were very well organized with people showing you where to park. We brought water and flash lights, but there were vendors selling these items. The path to the lava viewing area was marked with reflective paint on the lava. I was VERY impressed with the crowd control and organization. As the sun went down, the red glow of the lava became apparent. It was like viewing a fireworks display with the crowd ';oohing'; and ';aahing'; with each lava splash. It was definitely shorter and more convenient to drive back to Hilo after the viewing than back to Volcano Village.

5. Tsunami Museum - Hilo. You can see it in an hour, but it is an hour well spent. The story of the tsunamis and the survivors is presented in a moving and interesting museum.

6. Playing 4 rounds of golf (2 at the Waimea Country Club, 1 at the Volcano Golf and Country Club, and 1 at Makalei) We are public course golfers and would never pay resort course prices (more than $100) for a round of golf. The coupon for $65 rounds (with cart)at Waimea was perfect for us. The course is well maintained and fun with trees, hills, turkeys, chickens, and other birds on the course and not crowded. As we came up the 18th fairway we could see some of the observatories on the top of Mauna Kea. The Volcano Course ($51 with cart after 12 noon) was not as well manicured as Waimea, but was still a nicecourse . The Makalei course was probably the best maintained course, with 9 holes going up the mountain and 9 holes coming down. The views would probably be great, but it rained the entire time we were on the course -- fortunately we only paid $22 a piece with the discount from sitting through a timeshare presentation.

7. Our room at the Volcano Inn. -- This is the inn on 2nd St. in Volcano Village. Our room (half of a cottage) had two walls of glass looking out into the rain forest - simply spectacular. No breakfast, but a refrigerator, coffee maker (with coffee, sugar, etc.), microwave, and real wine glasses, a cork screw and free wifi. All for only $70 a night!

8. Staying at the Kona Tiki Hotel. It lived up to its reputation as a true bargain ($90 a night). The location right on the water was excellent, the views from the lanai were great, and the continental breakfast each morning by the pool with other guests eager to share their experiences was so pleasant. There may be no A/C, no TV, and no phone, but there is free wifi! The only ';slight'; inconvenience was the 15-20 walk into ';town';, which we made in order to avoid drinking and driving.

9. Hiking down into the Waipio Valley. We did this late in the day. It took about 30 minutes to get down to the beach and 45 minutes to walk back up. We saw one waterfall and the beach. It was hot. I feel this was more of an ';accomplishment'; than a ';highlight';. I wish we had walked down earlier in the day and had more time to walk back into the valley.

10. Hanging out in the stores and restaurants in Hawi, Kapa%26#39;au, and the Pololu Lookout. Just a nice sunny morning with good coffee, a few interesting stores, and a good lunch.

Ten Best Meals we ate on the Big Island (remembering that we are ';frugal'; and not ';gourmets';):

1. Volcano Golf and Country Club restaurant -- great plate lunch (cajun spiced fish, green salad, and rice for around $8) with a view of the golf course

2. Daniel Thiebaut%26#39;s - Kamuela -- Sunday brunch ($18.50 per person) - a lovely plantation house setting with tables placed in rooms throughout the house. The brunch items sit in chafing dishes in a large central area - eggs benedict, scrambled eggs, ribs, assorted salads, vegetables, and a chocolate fountain with fresh fruit, cake, and marsh mellows for dipping.

3. Tex Drive-In - Honoka%26#39;a -- good cheese burgers and excellent malasadas (Portuguese donuts with sweet jelly-like filling) ($11.84 for 2 of each)

4. Kona Brewing Company - Kailua - pleasant outdoor patio seating for standard brew pub fare -- the beer sampler allowed us to taste a variety of the brews

5. Hawi Baker - great bread on the sandwiches for lunch

6. Ken%26#39;s House of Pancakes - Hilo - we had banana pancakes with tropical syrups at 4:30 p.m. before heading to the lava viewing area. Lived up to its fine reputation.

7. Kona Canoe Club - Kailua - burgers, beer, and nice outdoor seating at sunset

8. Thai Thai - Volcano Village -- our most expensive meal on the BI ($53.84 for 2 entrees and 2 beers). The portions were tasty, spicy, and large. The large portions meant that we had lots left over for breakfast. Save room for the coconut ice cream for dessert!

9. Volcano House - buffet breakfast is reasonably priced ($12.50 per person) with an excellent view over the caldera from the dining room in the morning.

10. Big Island Grill - Kailua -- good food at a reasonable price, but the air conditioning was so cold I had to walk outside to warm up during the meal

Some of what I learned on the trip:

1. There is no lightening when it rains. This means we were able to safely play 17.5 holes of golf in the rain at Makelei. We only stopped when the rain became torrential.

2. I am glad that our first stop after the airport on the way to Volcano Village was at the Safeway in Kailua. We stocked up on diet soda, beer, wine, yogurt, and dried fruit for snacking. Also bought power bars on sale at the health food store in the shopping center. The selection in Volcano Village was more limited and more expensive. I should have bought some laundry detergent at the Safeway to use at the self- service laundry in Volcano Village.

3. Our annual National Park card gave us admission not only to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park but also to Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historic Park (Place of Refuge).

4. There are many good coupons and deals in the many free tourist books you can pick up at the airport or at hotels. We found a good deal on golf at Waimea Country Club -- $65 per person including cart.

5. The bar in the Kona airport has a last call around 9 p.m. and closes at 9:30 p.m. Don%26#39;t expect to be able to hang out there before a 10:45 p.m. flight.

Daily Itinerary

Day 1 (Thursday): Plane arrived in Kona from Honolulu at 11:15 a.m. Picked up rental car and drove from airport to Volcano Village. Shopping stop for groceries and Subway sandwich in Kailua. Check in Volcano Inn. Visit Volcano House. Dinner Kiawe Kitchen.

Day 2 (Friday): Breakfast at Volcano House. HVNP Visitor Center. Thurston Lava Tube. Chain of Craters Road. Jagger Museum. Road to Mauna Loa trail head. Volcano Golf and Country Club to obtain a tee time (12:15 the next day). Volcano Winery tasting. Dinner was beer and yogurt in our room.

Day 3 (Saturday): Hiked Kilauea Iki Trail (7:15 a.m. - 9:15 a.m.). Lunch and golf at Volcano Country Club. Laundry in Volcano Village. Dinner at Thai Thai.

Day 4 (Sunday): Check out of Volcano Inn. Drive to Hilo. Hilo Farmers Market. Walking in old town Hilo (eating fruit from the market). Reading and lounging in Lilinokalani Gardens. Check into Uncle Billy%26#39;s Hilo Bay Hotel. Early dinner at Ken%26#39;s Pancakes. Evening lava viewing near Kalapana.

Day 5 (Monday): Breakfast and checkout from Uncle Billy%26#39;s. Tsunami Museum. Rainbow Falls. Walk down to Onomea Bay. Smoothies at What%26#39;s Shakin. Akaka Falls. Train Museum in Laupahoehoe. (Called for reservations on Wednesday for Mauna Kea trip). Hike into Waipio Valley. Dinner at Tex Drive Inn. Check into Kamuela Inn.

Day 6 (Tuesday): Breakfast and checkout from Kamuela Inn. Pololu Lookout. Coffee and shopping in Kapaau. Lunch at Hawi Bakery. Waimea Country Club for 18 holes of golf (1:30 tee off -- the course to ourselves). Drive to Kailua Kona (on 190). Kona Tiki check in. Walk in to town for beer and nachos at Lulu%26#39;s.

Day 7 (Wednesday): Breakfast at Kona Tiki . Make snorkeling reservations for Friday. Attended time share presentation in Keauhou for a free lunch and discounted golf. Mauna Kea Summit Adventure (included dinner and hot cocoa and chocolate).

Day 8 (Thursday): Breakfast at Kona Tiki. Exploring sights and stores on Ali%26#39;i drive. Lunch at Kona Brewing Company. Visit Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historic Park (Place of Refuge).

Stop at coffee farm for a taste (in the rain). Stopped for malasadas at Chris%26#39;s Bakery in Captain Cook. (that was our dinner!)

Day 9 (Friday): Early morning Sea Quest snorkeling trip (included fruit, cookies, chips, and drinks). Lunch Big Island Grill. Visited Hilton Waikoloa Village Resort. Walked into town for drinks and shrimp at LuLu%26#39;s.

Day 10 (Saturday): Breakfast at the Kona Tiki. Golf (in the rain) at Makalei. Dinner at Kona Canoe Club. Shopping in Kona Inn Shopping Village.

Day 11 (Sunday): Breakfast and check out of Kona Tiki (escaping the rain of Kailua). Brunch at Daniel Thiebaut%26#39;s in Kamuela. Golf at Waimea Country Club. Return to Kailua (in the rain) for dinner at Wendy%26#39;s, bought a Subway sandwich for the plane, and gas fill up for the rental car. Plane departed Kona for the mainland at 10:45 p.m.

Trip Report 7/3-7/13 Very Long

WOW excellent trip report, well organized and sure to be helpful for many future visitors, thanks for taking the time and sharing.

Trip Report 7/3-7/13 Very Long

Great trip report! You%26#39;ve got lots of helpful information there for future travelers. Would you return to the Big Island?

Hi LaaLaa,

Well, I concur with AA and ejcrowe--what an incredibly organized Trip Report, jam-packed with useful information! I believe that you have set the standard for structuring Trip Reports. (Is is OK if I copy your ';outline'; for my future TR?)

Glad you had a great time.

Welcome home.

BTW, we traveled to RMNP and environs last year and truly loved Colorado.

Hi again,

I meant to ask you what coffee farm you visited? Did you take the tour and would you recommend it?

Thanks for a great well-organized report! You have certainly helped me prepare for our family of 4 trip to BI in November!

Loved your trip report!! We are visiting in April and are in the middle of doing all the research. I copied your trip report and pasted it into my notes...it had great information! I also loved how you organized it.

I agree, this is a super useful report, for the on the go and frugal folks! There%26#39;s so much here about luxury hotels that it%26#39;s nice to see a balance for the many people who don%26#39;t need that and/or can%26#39;t afford it.

I would stay at all those places, I think, but I vowed after two times never to stay at Uncle Billy%26#39;s again. It can be spectacularly awful. Glad you weren%26#39;t bummed out by it.

FYI on the weather. Summer is rainy season for Kailua-Kona. Hilo started raining again a week or two ago, so you just missed a rainy spell. There%26#39;s another current trip report by someone who ran into the rain at VNP.

Lightning -- actually, that is not true that it doesn%26#39;t lightning here ... although NOTHING like Colorado. (I%26#39;ve lived in Los Alamos and Taos, so I know Rocky Mountain lightning). We get rather big lightning storms on rare occasions, at least on the east side. But you%26#39;re right that rain does not mean you need to be concerned. If it%26#39;s going to lightning, you will get warning.

Thanks again!

Great report! it made me more interested in the Mauna Kea tour--have never been because (a) we tend to fll asleep early in Hawaii and (b) 8 hours seems awfully long.

Thanks for all of the favorable comments to my trip report. The trip really was a great vacation!

To ejcrowe: Would I return? Getting to the Big Island has been on my ';bucket list'; for a long time. It was a dream come true to visit and worked out well since I could combine it with a business trip to Oahu. However, there are lots of other places I want to see before I start making return visits. I have started planning a trip to Peru for next summer.

To 1TravelingFamily: We just happened upon the UCC (Ueshima Coffee Company) Factory Outlet (which I inaccurately called a coffee farm in my report) as we were leaving the Place of Refuge and stopped in to get out of the rain and get a ';free'; cup of coffee. I don%26#39;t have any personal knowledge about visiting the coffee farms -- but I think it would be fun!

To K...K: Please accept my very sincere thanks for your very helpful postings. I really tried to pay attention to what you say. With regard to Uncle Billy%26#39;s, I knew this wasn%26#39;t a highly recommended lodging, but the Dolphin Bay price quotes I had were more than $100 per night. I can see how Uncle Billy%26#39;s could become a problem, but the check-in clerk and the housekeeper went out of their way to find us a nice room and make sure it was clean -- all for $99.15 (including tax)! My comment on lightening was based on a talk with the golf pro at Makalei. He said there are spectacular lightening shows off shore from Kona in the winter, but he has not had experience with lightening over the course. We just had 2 graduate students killed by lightening last week in Fort Collins. As a golfer in Colorado I have a very healthy fear of lightening, so playing in the rain in Hawaii was a new -- and almost pleasant -- experience for me.

Mahalo and Aloha!

Terrific report!

A few questions:

What did you think of the Kamuela Inn? The TA reviews range from acceptable to awful.

How were the smoothies at What%26#39;s Shakin%26#39;?

If the best 2-3 hour hike you%26#39;ve ever taken is a 10, what number would you give Kilauea Iki?

Thanks!